Sand Castles, Camels, and punctured tires

So after Jaipur on Thursday, we went to Bikaner and saw some forts, stayed in a great hotel and had our waiter scratch himself inaapropriately right in front of us. Oh, how the Indian population ignores any sense of hygiene and manners in public. It's quite charming really. And by charming I mean nauseating. I thought Clarie was going to have a heart attack!!!

So right now we're in Jaisalmer, at the foot of the major fort. The fort is incredible, it looks like a giant sand castle...they call Jaisalmer the Golden City because it's made out of sand stone. Claire and I were ambitious this morning and got up to watch the sunrise form the rooftop of our hotel. It was quite stunning to watch! We're staying at a hotel called Narayan Niwas Palace, which apparently by the photos hung around the hotel, Princess Anne stayed at once during the 70's...oooooh! Yesterday we were in the fort, looking at the Havellis- which are homes designed with many many windows to let the wind pass through for cooling (Hawa means wind...wow I'm learning stuff!). They're beautiful and have gorgeously carved details all around. We stopped in this antiques store and met the owner who was very entertaining...the store itself was great, the steps were knee high, and we had to climb 5 flights...it was a workout! He taught us never to put milk into a copper pot and then drink it. Apparently the copper turns the milk into poison. I will trust him on that. My learning continues...

Last night we went out ot the Sam Sand Dunes and watched the sunset, and I had my first experience riding a camel (maybe I'd done it once at African Lion Safari when I was a kid, but it's a whole different ball game when you're an adult). Getting on and getting off a camel is quite an adventure, they're not the most graceful creatures, and I imagine I didn't look that graceful myself trying to get off the thing. The thing about all the tourist spots is that you constantly get approached by people wanting money, they may be selling things or they may want to do a dance for you, or they may just be pleading for your generosity while holding a malnourished and sunburned baby at their side. It's quite difficult to see, and even harder not to give money to all of them. So it was tricky to watch the sunset last night because our view was getting blocked by the continuous flow of locals wanting our attention. But what else can I expect...it's better than resorting to other ways to make money.

This afternoon we are leaving for Khuri, which is a desert town 50 km from Jaisalmer. We are going on a nighttime camel safari and camping in a hut tonight. The days are very hot (probably 30+), but the night time is perfect in the low to mid 20's. We're spending the rest of this afternoon in search of real brewed coffee for Claire (India's kind of a tea country).

We've grown very fond of our driver Yogesh. He doesn't speak much English, but he puts in a good effort. He always brings us cold bottled water and we love him for it. And he always calls us "Yes ma'am". We had a moment of fear, when our tire got punctured and he had to pull over in the dark and 2 of his friends on a motorcycle showed up very soon after to help (I had seemingly missed the sudden deflation of the tire although I heard the phone conversation with his friends). I thought that this is it, this is the story all those travellers talk about , where everything was fine and great and then their trusted guide/driver/travel companions turned into a monster. So I'm in the front, freaking out, Claire's in the back oblivious, and Yogesh is at the trunk taking out our bags to get to the spare...or so he says. His friends then show up and I'm like, but they're in a motorcycle, how can they possibly steal our ginourmous backpacks? and why would they want to (althought I'm sure my dirty clothes could fetch something on the blackmarket). I grabbed the cell phone and somehow there was a set of heavy metal pliers in the little door next to me and I kept it under my leg just in case things turned ugly (by me swinging violently at the first sight of trouble of course). Claire got out and saw that the tire indeed was deflated and that they all were helping to fix the tire. I discreetly put the pliers back when Yogesh came into the car and asked who they other guys were and he said they work for the same travel agency (Jaisalmer branch) and were helping us find the hotel since this was Yogesh's first time in Jaisalmer. So not only was I prepared to serve a thrashing to our beloved Yogesh, but I was also terrified of our local tour guides who turned out to be very gracious and kind gentlemen. Ahh, paranoia, you are my best friend and worst enemy. I guess it's better to be aware than ignore the signs.

Part of me thinks I just wanted the story to tell :)